Generally, they do – but only initially, after installation or if they have been allowed to dry out. During normal operation, when the wood is warm and saturated, the seal is made naturally (and without the use of any glue) as the wood swells by as much as 2% against the bands, making the tub watertight.
This process may take anything from a day to two or three weeks after commissioning, but we guarantee that they will always seal. The joints between each stave and the base are coopered to very fine tolerances by the manufacturers in Canada.

With careful ownership and correct water treatment we would expect them to be giving you the same pleasure in 20years as they do when first installed. There are similar tubs out in Canada and the US that have been around for even longer. Some of the plumbing components may need replacing during that time, but the cedar wood, due to its anti-decay properties, should endure.

No. The cedar will look after itself, although, should you wish to maintain the natural colour of the wood, we see no reason why it cannot be oiled with cedar oil – just on the outside. Most people prefer the maintenance free, natural ageing of the wood, which will slowly turn it to a silver colour.

Most emphatically – NO. As long as the water chemistry is correct, they are probably easier to keep clean than plastic spas. Recent evidence has shown that wooden surfaces harbour fewer bacteria than plastic due to the natural disinfecting agents within the wood. It is this, together with the correct water treatment that keeps wooden tubs clean. It is a complete MYTH that they turn green and slimy (if looked after correctly).

Certainly. In fact, we think that the best experience is on a frosty, still and clear evening, or even in the snow. A feeling of ‘cheating’ becomes apparent on these occasions, when you are usually trapped indoors.

As mentioned, wooden tubs hold more water than spas because of their depth – one of their biggest advantages in terms of the bathing experience. This obviously means they are somewhat heavier and that a good solid base is required. Whether free-standing or partially sunk, they need to stand on a level, re-inforced concrete pad – 4” thick on top of 4” hardcore.

Both a water supply (garden hose) for filling, and a land drain for emptying, needs to be close to hand.

Finally, an electrical source is needed for the heater/control unit and pumps:

Low Force – 16A
White Force – 25A
High Force – 32A

This is very much down to you – but a few points are worth considering.
Proximity to the house
Nearest shower – it is recommended that users shower before and after using a hot tub.
Privacy
Shelter – from wind in particular
Indoors or outdoors – an indoor tub is cheaper to run, but needs careful ventilation.

Common sense should prevail at all times. Pregnancy and heart conditions should make users particularly aware that prolonged exposure to hot water can cause problems (seek medical advice). Alcohol, particularly to excess, is obviously not to be recommended. Anyone feeling at all uncomfortable for any reason should leave the tub immediately.

We have heard stories of kidney damage to children in the US, where apparently they have laid against a strong water jet for some time. This would be very difficult in our hot tubs, as users are free floating rather than laid back in the pre-determined body moulds of the plastic spas. Some manufacturers imply that the stronger the jet, the better the experience. We don’t – our pumps are accordingly rated for comfort.

Those with sensitive skin also need to consider which sanitising method to use, as with any spa/hot tub.

Initially – yes. For the first few fills, and especially the first one, the tannin in the wood (which gives whiskey its colour in whiskey barrels) leaches out into the water. The sanitiser used accelerates this action, chlorine more so than bromine. The water will appear brown but is in no way harmful and with progressive water changes this leaching will gradually disappear.